Hungrygrrl

Portalis is one of the original wine bars in Seattle. Just steps from the Ballard market with big picture windows, it’s a perfect place to rest one’s feet after a little shopping. With yesterday’s indian summer weather, the sunshine came streaming in, outlining a yellow-leaved sugar maple.

I’ve been there a few times, but never delved into their food. The menu thankfully includes some more substantial dishes, such as rabbit and pork belly. And of course there is an extensive wine by the glass menu (not to mention racks of bottles).

Sheela and I took a break from our olive oil shopping to test out a few wines, she a Nebbiolo and me a Primitivo. I have to admit, I chose mine because it was paired with the rabbit, and I don’t usually drink Primitivo.

I was disappointed. The first taste was empty, like a shy girl with nothing to say, but it did have a beautifully sophisticated finish. The nebbiolo was rich and smoky.

Then the food arrived, carried by our pony tailed waiter. A cauliflower gratin was perfectly cooked, smooth with bechamel and tempered by gruyere. The rabbit was comfort food in spades, rich and sweet with prunes and pearl onions and layered over creamy polenta.

But the pumpkin soup was sadly overwhelmed by mccormick’s curry powder, more reminiscent of my grandmother’s curried chicken salad than any true Indian flavor. We couldn’t finish it.

I love the atmosphere at Portalis, the original art on the wall, middle aged couples sipping wine while gazing out the window at the leaves falling. But the food can’t hold a candle to Verve in Columbia City. The menu at Verve is both more extensive and more carefully prepared.

I’ll still make it back to Portalis, every now and then when I’m wandering through Ballard and in need of a glass of wine. But I wish they’d work on their menu, perhaps try to create a pumpkin soup that actually tastes like pumpkin.

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Portalis Wine Shop & Bar
5205 Ballard Ave NW
Seattle, WA 98107
www.portaliswines.com
(206) 783-2007

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