I wouldn’t presume to do a top 10 list for all restaurants in Seattle, there are just too many. So I bring you sandwiches. A good sandwich is like a masterpiece. The bread should be fresh but yielding, the ingredients should blend in that perfect way to give you salty, sweet, sour, umami, fresh in every bite. A good sandwich has been tasted and perfected, not just thrown together.

These are my favorites. I don’t believe in nominating someone just for the numbers, so there’s only a top 8. But then I haven’t tried Bakeman’s.

1. Salumi

Armandino Batali (Mario Batali’s father) has made this place an institution. They’re only open during the day during the week and there’s always a line out the door, but the meat speaks for itself. I am addicted to the finochiona, a fennel scented salami. Not to mention the freshly made buffala mozzerella. It almost makes up for the lack of Italian delis in this town. Almost.

2. Paseo

I really fell hard for Paseo back when I discovered it a few years ago, and would go out of my way to pick up a Midnight Cuban for my afternoon hike. Sitting on the top of Mt. Si with pork juices dripping down your chin mingling with cilantro and hot peppers—there’s nothing like it. They’ve cleaned up their act a little since then, upgrading the small shack on Fremont Ave to a bigger shack, but as far as I can tell the food hasn’t suffered. The sign is still non-existent, but the line down the block should give you a clue.

3. Homegrown

A relative newcomer, but already a star in the sandwich arena. They have 10-15 cold and hot sandwiches, all with fresh and locally sourced ingredients. The flank steak sandwich is a standout with its mix of blue cheese and arugula, but everyone has a favorite. They also have soups and salads and some seating options, with that blond wood clean living kind of décor.

4. Skillet

You really only need two words—bacon jam. Skillet operates out of an airstream trailer and is there one day and gone the next due to the vicissitudes of the city’s polices around truck food, but it’s worth searching out. Their website has a calendar for where you can find them any day of the week. They make a mean blt, cook up some juicy burgers and make fries worth standing in the rain for. All out of something your parents might have camped in back in the 70s. Rumor has it they’ll be at the West Seattle farmer’s market on sundays come summer.

5. Pho Cyclo (SODO)

There is something about the banh mi at Pho Cyclo (the SODO location is better, not sure why). Theirs are not the cheapest banh mi in the city, but they are near perfect as far as I can tell. Grilled pork, pickled daikon and carrots, cilantro, and jalapeno make one of the most balanced and delicious sandwiches in the city. Only offered during lunchtime and made even tastier by the addition of café sua da (Vietnamese iced coffee).

6. Baguette Box

I would put baguette box higher on the list if they weren’t so spotty about their service. Run by Eric Banh (of Monsoon), this place gives a nod to banh mi by putting pickled vegetables and cilantro on many of their sandwiches, but then runs away, adding Salumi meats, grilled lamb, and coconut curry tofu. Some days I think this place is the most amazing place ever, the next day their counter guy gets all uppity about running out of cilantro. “These aren’t actually banh mi, the cilantro is just a gesture.” But even so…their red wine braised pork sandwich is otherworldly, the soft silky meat brought alive by jalapenos and pickled vegetables.

7. Grand Central Baking Company

Solidly great sandwiches with house roasted meats (pork loin, chicken) and local cheeses all served on Grand Central bread. I somehow don’t remember exactly what I had when I went as it was 6 months ago, but I seem to recall roasted turkey with cranberry chutney. All I know is it was good. Lots of vegetarian options too and some great soups. With locations on Eastlake and Pioneer square.

8. Essential Baking Company

An old standby in the sandwich arena, but still fabulous. Similar to Grand Central, they make some outstanding sandwiches, often changing to fit what’s fresh and local at the moment. They also have yummy baked goods, which doesn’t hurt. Fremont and Madison Park.

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I linger over the menu longer than I’m supposed to. The person behind me shifts their feet. But they have these sauces I’ve never heard of. Balsamic reduction? And is that really olive oil?
The anna banana split sounds amazing (three scoops of ice cream, three toppings made by Dana Cree, the pastry chef from Veil, fresh whipped cream, nuts).

I’m almost tempted. But it is noon. Does ice cream count as lunch?

I finally decide on a single waffle cone when the girl behind the counter reassures me that “single” really means “2 scoops” and I can mix and match as I like. I go for salted caramel and lavender honey.

It’s an interesting combination, but I wish they were swirled like dairy queen. The salted caramel is so salty I need a glass of water. Is that good? I thought balance was good. When I get down to the lavender they blend and I am happier.

I have heard Molly Moon is her real name and the dog is her real dog (a french bulldog boston terrier mix). I am impressed. They have dog biscuits.

After my beautiful waffle cone I am full and I’ve decided this must be lunch. Flip flops back on and out into the blinding sunlight. Back someday for cardamom and scout mint.

…………………………………………………….
Molly Moon’s
http://www.mollymoonicecream.com
1622 ½ N 45th St
Seattle WA 98103
206.547.5105

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We tried to go two weeks ago on a Tuesday and were met by a sign saying simply “Full. Come back at 8:30.” No waiting list. No reservations. No drinks at the bar.

It’s a small place, spare, with single filament bulbs. There were only three people working when we arrived, and two of them were the owners (Laurie and Phred). The other was a dishwasher.

Laurie and Phred have chosen to focus on making a perfect dinner for just a few (5 tables), rather than a mediocre dinner for many. Laurie cooks, Phred serves the food and chooses wine. They have created quite a stir. Seattle is not a town where people are used to being turned away.

We went again this past saturday (it was my birthday after all). This time we tried arriving at 8:30. The little sign was there again. “How long?”we asked. “At least an hour and a half,” Phred snapped as he swooped up four glasses of wine from the bar. His stress seemed out of context, the place so quiet with just 5 tables.

But I persisted.

“Can we wait?” I asked, pointing to a group of white arm chairs.

“Fine,” he replied. “But I may not be able to get to you.”

We sat, relaxed, talked. In half an hour he returned with two small glasses of clear liquid. “To clear the palate,” he pronounced, and sped off again.

As we sat a threesome came in, asked Phred about the wait, left for 5 minutes and then returned, expecting that things would have changed. Phred told them “2 hours minimum” and they stormed off screaming, “I guess you don’t want our business!”

A few minutes later a couple arrived and Phred greeted them warmly, his face softening as he placed his hands on the woman’s pregnant belly.

It’s clear your experience at Elemental depends on whether Phred likes you.

At 9:30 he led us to our table. “Cocktails?” he asked. “Manhattan, Sazerac, Side Car.” “Margarita?” I queried, but then regretted it. It sounded unsophisticated.

“You’ll try something new,” he said. He returned with a Manhattan for my boyfriend (a beautiful rich drink with a hint of cherry) and for me… a margarita. But better. Pure agave tequila, fresh orange juice, amaretto and vermouth. It was wonderful. I drank the whole thing, despite my boyfriend’s concerned expression.

And then the food began. They have small plates, large plates, and a special deal if you have one from each column (3 for 36$). We both went for the special, starting with a crab, mango and spinach appetizer that was so simple and pure it felt almost perfect. Then there was smoked duck, also simple, carefully cooked, but not a stand out. Chicken with tamarind sauce, tomato stuffed with fresh corn, lamb steaks. They all rolled over us. Not because they were bad, but because they were so pure, just the flavor of each, unadorned.

And perhaps because of all the wine. A new glass came with each course, sometimes two. With the first glass I tentatively sipped, “gewurtztraminer?” I asked, “Riesling!” he responded. It became a game. “You’re not expected to know this one,” he said when I was befuddled over a red, a new grape from the Wilamette Valley. He seemed to favor Rieslings and syrahs. In six glasses of wine there wasn’t a single pinot, cabernet, or merlot.

Then came dessert, panna cotta with fresh berries, the flavor of such pure cream we both stopped speaking and simply ate, cleaning the plate. With the dessert came small glasses of both port and sherry.

By this time, the room was blurry. I am not meant to drink this much (11 drinks each, my boyfriend counted). We stumbled out to the car, and I woke up at 4 am not remembering going to bed.

It’s a great place to go if you want to try something new and you’re willing to put up with Phred’s demands. And if you have a good alcohol tolerance.

Maybe next time I’ll go easy on that margarita.

*******************************************
Elemental

http://www.elementseattle.com

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